Curacao to Cartagena

We HAD to leave Curacao before we grew roots like S/V Tiger Lilly had done!  It is a lovely place and very convenient.  We were getting to know our way around pretty well.  Spanish Waters is a great location to spend some time in protected waters.

We left on January 14 bound for Aruba to stage our next voyage.  That leg of the trip was 82.9 miles and a very nice sail down wind.  We slept for a few hours and flew the quarantine flag rather than to clear in to Customs and Immigrations.  Perhaps there will be another day to go ashore in Aruba.  Boy there is a ton of shipping traffic around these ABC Islands!

At 1:15 pm, we hauled up the anchor to make way to Cartagena.  Once again, we were travelling with Celtic Rover and had arranged to speak to them every two hours by either VHF radio or SSB since after a few hours we get too far apart for the VHF to work.  The trip was one of 60 hours and 4 minutes, totaling 387 nautical miles.  Our average speed was 6.4 knots with a maximum speed of 14.2 – surfing down the side of some of those waves!  Hang on to your hat!!

KUDOS to Tom Service aboard Tiger Lilly!!  That man is a wealth of information!!!!!  He helped us set up our cutter rig for downwind sailing and it was GREAT!  We had a very pleasant sail (without some of the roll we had coming to Bonaire from Grenada) AND we got the autopilot to work efficiently!  A trip of this length requires the crew to be rested and these two things really did the trick!  Much of the time, we were “wing and wing” and/or on a broad reach.  We have a much shorter list of repairs on this stop because we didn’t beat up the boat and US!

We arrived in Cartagena at around midnight and decided that we would try to enter the waters at night even though we had decided that we did not want to try that.  Entering the breakwater channel in the dark was a little scary but no big problem.  The harbor is huge – a major shipping port, actually.  Most cruising sailboats anchor in a corner near a couple of marinas so that took about an hour to navigate through the shipping channels.  It was 1:15 am when we put down the anchor.  Once we felt that the anchor was secure, we retired to the bed – yay! 

Next morning, we were greeted by friends on Sea Schell, a boat we have gotten to know on this trip.  They left about a week before us from Curacao.  They assisted with giving us an overview of the area and introducing us to an agent to get our papers processed for Customs and Immigrations. 

We got to watch one of the NFL playoff games on a television at a local eatery.  Go Broncos!!  Woo Hoo!!!  When we got home, we logged on to the internet, using Bruce’s username and password on the marina wifi.  On logging in and going to Facebook, we learned that there were several people worried about us.  We had been diligent about setting off a SPOT messenger every six hours (twice as often as coming from Grenada to Bonaire) but most of them did not go through.  So the last message was sent about 12+ hours after we left Aruba and never again – not even after we anchored here in Cartagena.  The only thing we can figure is that we did not leave the confounded thing turned on long enough for the message to go through.  We are here safe and sound and NOW, Jessica has a wealth of information regarding what, who and how to contact if we should be late checking in next time.  Sorry for any gray hairs we caused. 

We have walked over the section of town close to our anchorage.  By the way, this is all three of our first time to step foot on another CONTINENT!  A grocery store is very close and there are some small chandleries within walking distance.  Eating out is VERY reasonable in price.  On Monday, we walked to a mall to get set up with SIM cards for the phone.  That is the first mall I have been inside in at least a year and perhaps 2-3!  Many stores are US brand stores plus there are many others.  Communications are challenging as many here do not speak English.

SO……we are diligently trying to get our Spanish up to speed.  We have a book that is excellent called “Spanish for Cruisers”.  We also have been trying to watch an hour a day of television to increase our vocabulary.  Darrell is doing great with learning the numbers and exchange rate for Colombian Pesos.  It is very unnerving to look at prices that are 1000 times more and double the USD.  For example, a beer costs the equivalent of $1.00 here.  The Colombian price would be $2000.00 pesos.  Beeronomy – many cruisers understand that.  Another example, we went to lunch yesterday with Celtic Rover and the cost was $40,000.00 pesos but that was only $20 USD equivalent for an excellent lunch!

We have done one morning in the old city, meandering around.  There is a walled city that is very old and many museums are there.  We have barely scratched the surface of all the exploration we hope to do here.  Right now, we plan on spending at least 4-6 weeks total here.  Hopefully, we can get a better internet connection sometime to be able to upload all the pictures we have been taking.

For now, Adios and hasta luego!  I guess if we get good enough, we could do a whole blog in Spanish – OK?  lol

Eau de la Vie

We had an interesting evening night before last.  We were sitting at anchor in Spanish Waters, Curacao where we have been for about 2 weeks now.  It was after dinner and we were relaxing in the cockpit.  We had noticed the above vessel with their running lights on and thought that they were going to leave after dark.  Not unusual at all – two other boats left about 1-2 hours prior for Aruba.

Anyway, this vessel has been anchored for several days off our starboard quarter almost ¼ mile back (D says I exaggerate so a football field).  The day they came into the anchorage, our friends on Celtic Rover said they had dropped the hook in front of us and almost drifted into our bow.  Anyway, I digress.

As one can see from the picture, it is a beautiful and pretty new boat.  We have spoken about the vessel a few times and Darrell commented that if he had a great big pretty boat like that, he wouldn’t store 29 fenders on the deck.  First red flag should have been raised. 

Anyway, last night the two boats left the anchorage and one was a catamaran in almost the exact position of this boat now – a boat length or two off our starboard beam.  The catamaran left around 6pm while it was still fairly light outside to get through the channel leading to the ocean.  About two hours later, this boat decided to move.  No big deal, right?  Well, they had to use spotlights to see the anchor as they were lifting it because it was now dark.  As the anchor chain came up, they moved nearer and nearer our boat.  A second red flag should have been the dinghy that was not raised for ocean going as they dragged it over the water by it’s lift points, beam to the waves.

Finally, Darrell got out our spotlight (after several repositions with their loud bow thruster) to be sure that they were not going to dislodge OUR anchor chain.  YES, they moved nearly a quarter of a mile as they pulled in anchor chain and had dropped it almost on top of our chain!  They proceeded to re-anchor in almost the exact same spot and drop back a reasonable amount.

Anyway, this picture is taken the next morning from our cockpit.  Not sure what that was all about the other night but they are now closer than I would like given questionable judgment and the number of fenders that they deem necessary in their cruising lifestyle.  We will see what the next couple of days brings.  Eau de la vie – means water of life.  A French name for a German flagged vessel??

Bonaire to Curacao

While on Bonaire, we took a tour (guided). It was enlightening. This island is very flat and dry compared to all the lush, mountainous islands we have grown accustomed to seeing. We did see huge flocks of Flamingoes down by the salt flats but they were very far away. At the south end of the island, they make salt. There are also kite boarders and windsurfers by the gazillions. The north end is hilly and home of a park that we didn't get to tour as it is another half day of walking trails :(

It seems that they (the island inhabitants are mostly Dutch) really like fireworks this time of the year - the big boys!  Someone just launched one close to our boat and it sounded like an explosion. Hope we can sleep tonight.

We had a lovely day of sailing on Monday to reach Curaçao. The red carpet welcome was rolled out by Tom and Lilly of S/V Tiger Lilly!  Thank you guys!!!!  Our own personal guides to take us to Customs, Immigration, Port Authority, and a sight seeing tour of downtown. 

Curaçao is more photogenic but we sure enjoyed the diving in Bonaire!  And this island loves fireworks too!!  At least we are not close enough to shore for any to be launched at our boat!  New Years fireworks was a 360° panorama here in Spanish Waters.  We have gone into town a couple of times since we have been here – there is a large supermarket with a free shuttle bus transport.  Grocery shopping is a highlight of Ann’s week if there are an abundance of choices. 

We spent a day repairing sails (minor sewing) to get ready for the next passage.  There are several options that we are examining for stops along the next portion of our trip.  We have to be ready for somewhat heavier winds off the coast of Colombia.  In fact, this is one of the most windy areas in the world.  Chris Parker, one of our weather sources, refers to this as “the typically windy area of Colombia”.  The following gives an explanation. 

What creates this phenomenon is a combination of factors: 

1.  The Santa Marta Mountains form a ridge (almost 19,000 feet high) that the trade winds are forced to go around.  This increases the speed by about 10 knots over the normal gradient winds. 

2.  There is a stationary low that sits over Colombia – increasing the gradient winds. 

3.  At night, cool air falls down the mountains toward the sea, increasing the night-time winds by another 10 knots (catabatic winds). 

4.  The waves that are created by the wind blowing across the Caribbean Sea are pushed up on a shelf that is 200 to 500 feet deep (most of the Caribbean Sea is thousands of feet deep).  This increases the wave height. 

5.  There is a current that flows up from the Bay of Panama and along the coast of Colombia.  Current against the wind shortens the distance between the waves, creating what sailors refer to as “square waves”.

So we sit, waiting on the RIGHT weather window to make the next passage and prepare to have 30-35 knot winds.  Surely growing up in the Texas panhandle prepared us for this!!  Lol 

On the up side: 

★We have internet on the boat 24/7. 

★We bought a sim card for the phone so we can call our family. 

★We are in the company of many sailboats in this bay. 

★The shopping is good.

★Roxy has a boy come by every day and take her for a walk.

★The same boy picks up our trash every day for a small fee.

“I got my toes in the water, my a** in the sand, not a worry in the world, a cold beer in my hand, LIFE IS GOOD TODAY!”

Grenada to Bonaire

Whew, we finally did it.....we left beautiful Grenada. I was beginning to think we never would leave. It is such a great place with so many activities and conveniences. Bittersweet to say goodbye!

In our last blog we expressed hope to spend Christmas in Cartagena. The weather did not cooperate but fingers crossed, we might make it by New Years.  Christmas will be in one of the ABC islands or traveling. We have to make the most of our opportunities as we get them.

Boy, Alibi is looking good these days. We spent about a week in the boat yard in Carriacou doing maintenance. She now has new dodger and bimini, fresh bottom paint, fresh boot stripe. We absolutely loved Carriacou Marine Services - ask us if you want more details. Great place!

Our latest travels included the longest passage for us to date. Bonaire is roughly 400 miles from Grenada and takes 2-3 days to make landfall. We are traveling with Celtic Rover to see the western side of the Caribbean. I have simplified it this way...we have spent the last several months on the French side so now we are going to the Spanish side of the Caribbean - lol.

Roxy turned nine on this trip. She got to see dolphins (which she loves) the afternoon before her birthday. She now has the rabies blood test to get her entry into some of the more restrictive countries. She is great on the boat but prefers smoother passages than this one. 

Only a few minor things broke on this trip. One expects some fallout with a 25 year old boat. She is in great shape but conditions are taking their toll on her hardware. We are excited that the auto pilot is working properly now but finally had a point driven home on this trip!  I remember Dick and Nelda telling me not to transmit on SSB with the autopilot on. NOW I know why!!!!  Last night I was at the helm, steering by hand when Darrell went below to do our regularly set up communications with Celtic Rover. While I was driving, the autopilot tried to take over - I couldn't turn it off so I unplugged the remote controller unit. It STILL tried to steer the boat!  I had to yell at Darrell over engine noise and waves and sea spray to hurry up and turn off the autopilot. Whew - that was an exciting moment!! 

Boy howdy, surfing down 6-9' waves in 15-20 knot + winds has been fun. So far our max speed is 12.7 - that is the fastest 12 knots you will ever do!  With the addition of a westerly flowing current, we make good time on a passage like this.  For those of you who are not familiar with cruising, several descriptions are in order here.  Activities of Daily Living (ADL's) can be quite challenging such as going to the bathroom – a seatbelt would be a bonus, brushing your teeth makes you feel like spider man or woman, and eating presents its own unique set of challenges.  The meal preparation can be downright dangerous – even with a gimbaled stove – one needs to stay away from hot or sharp items.  Taking a shower reminded me of being inside someone’s Christmas present that was being shaken – glad to have a seat in there!!!  And after I completed that, I looked out the window to see and hear just how hard the wind was blowing in the rigging of the boat.  Another piece of information is that most of these tasks are accomplished wearing an additional article of clothing – our lifejackets.  Not the great big and bulky ones but the inflatable type. 

One of us has to stand a watch at all times when we are underway (obviously) and we had hoped that the autopilot would work better than it did.  It does function but with the rough conditions, didn’t work to our satisfaction most of the trip.  Could be just the fact that we are so used to hand steering.  Anyway, a learning curve on that…..  After a while, though, you get into a rhythm with the waves and it reminds me of dancing.  You all know that we both enjoy dancing very much so that is the fun part of driving.  In a rocking boat, sleeping is a challenge – for Ann, not Darrell!  I was finally able to go below and lay in the beanbag chair we bought for Roxy to stop the motion enough to sleep some.  That’s right, I slept in Roxy’s bed!  We take turns and you have about 4-5 hours to sleep and rest at a time.

The phrase that is used frequently to wish fellow sailors a good voyage is:  Fair winds & following seas.  Since my dive boat captaining days, I have never understood the “good” connotation of this phrase.  I never liked having a following sea in them and I still don’t in the sailboat.  I would rather be wished fair winds and CALM seas!

Anyway, we made it to Bonaire around sunrise and got checked in with Customs and Immigrations.  We took a few naps that day and slept very well in the calm anchorage (mooring field) that night.  We have met several new cruisers and even got to go diving on Christmas morning!  We are looking forward to a few days here then move on to Curacao to see Tom and Lilly on S/V Tiger Lilly.

Happy New Year.  May 2014 be healthy, prosperous and joyous for all of you.

Hugs,

Ann, Darrell, and Roxy

Another "windy season" is winding down in Grenada. That is what the locals call Hurricane Season since they rarely get hurricanes down this far south.  Anyway, we find ourselves now scrambling to get the boat project list completed so we will be ready when it is time to leave. Where did the summer go?

Darrell has returned from a trip back to TX to see about his Mom. We are prepared that these trips could become more frequent. While he was there, he got to spend a lot of quality time with Lyric (the grandson) and even got to attend his second birthday party.  Roxy and I are glad he is back with us on the boat. Even if he did mess up the list of items I sent for him to get for me - grrrrrr!  


While he was gone it seemed that a rash of various crimes took place in this part of the Caribbean. That makes me doubly glad to have him back on board. I know Roxy is a good first line of defense, though.  One night, he stayed out late watching football at the marina and I thought she was going to tear him apart when he came home!!  

Bingo was adopted by a veterinary student and her name is Isla. It was a good change. She just couldn't stop peeing on my settee cushions. She has not had a single "accident" in her new home. I miss her and her lively personality but our home smells nicer with her gone. Roxy is not very sorry that she left - I really expected her to be a little sad. Nope - she is happy being the center of attention again!!  lol

The plan is to go west as we leave here this year to see some new sights. We have charts and books detailing new countries for the next chapter of this great adventure. It will be bittersweet as we begin saying farewell to the cruisers we have spent the summer with. Many are making plans to leave here very soon. In the next few weeks, I will likely run a test run on the SPOT messenger so if you are on the "top ten" list, just ignore it as we haven't left yet. However, we hope to spend Christmas in Cartagena so get out the Caribbean maps once again because we are going to uncharted territory for us!  Cheers to all!!

DnA and Roxy